Saturday, May 12, 2007

Dupioni update

Hi everyone!
Sorry for the third post in the day - this one shall be really short.
Thank you very much for your precious advice, Summerset and Shannon.
I followed Summerset's advice and washed a sample this afternoon, waited for it to dry, then ironed it according to Shannon's instructions. I don't know whether it's because I'd serged the swatch beforehand (it was fraying and I didn't want it to fray into nonexistence in the washing machine!), and maybe that pulled the fibers, but the swatch ended up significantly coarser. The warp threads became much more apparent.

It's difficult to photograph the difference so here are a couple of pictures at different angles. The washed swatch was laid onto the unwashed fabric, along its grain.



Can you see what I mean? Do you think the serged edges caused that?
In any case, I certainly don't want the whole fabric to look that way.

Anyway, I still have time to decide... All I did with the dress today was read through the pattern instructions and figure out which alterations I wanted, and how to do them. Then I left to co-sing at a French-Portuguese mass, which was very moving and uplifting.

Hope you're all having a lovely weekend.

17 comments:

Summerset said...

Hmmm . . . that's about how my washed dupioni looks, too.

I like the shiny look better - it's richer, but not as obviously shiny as peau de soie satin.

Annemarie said...

Whoa, I missed a couple of your posts, I see, but spent a lovely time perusing them just now :o)
First of all: blue is a lovely colour for a wedding dress. Well, I would say that. I was married in blue, too!
I love the birthday gifts you received. That petite box is just beautiful!

Lisa said...

I can't offer any advice but I wanted to say hello. I would have loved to hear you sing at mass! How exciting. Love you. :)

stitcherw said...

The blue is lovely, sorry it is causing the complications regarding the washing of it. Unfortunatly I can't give any advice, as don't I sew and am not familiar with the fabric. Hopefully you get it all figured out soon and it doesn't cause you any more problems.
Sue

Shashi Nayagam said...

Oh I didn't know one could wash dupioni. I refrain from washing any sort of silk.
The colour is absolutely gorgeous and so delicate looking and very you. The dress I am sure is going to be beautiful as my dear you are a wonderful stitcher and a seamstress.

Margaret said...

Beautiful fabric which I am sure you will transform into a stunning dress. It's so wonderful how your online friends are helping with these fabric care questions.
Would have loved to hear you sing in the mass. I am sure it was a moving service.

Dawn said...

I would tend to doubt that the "roughness" is due to the serging unless you had a flawed needle. It's probably the washing. And with a wedding dress, why not save it for dry cleaning?

I absolutely love the blue color. It's happy and peaceful and reminds me of daisies for some reason.

I would recommend underlining your dress with silk organza if you can. Dupioni on its own can be sort of flimsy. The organza will support it, giving any gathers more "umf" and making all detail work invisible (like the hem) and it will help the dress drape in softer folds. What I mean is, it won't sort of "collapse" on itself. I have also underlined dupioni with cotton batiste. So one alternative to consider might be to use your batiste as an underlining, then perhaps some china silk for a lining.

I'm just making suggestions...you quite obviously know what you're doing with your sewing. but I see you have not worked with dupioni before.

Again, what a really elegant choice you've made in fabric. Really beautiful in a fresh way.

I've only recently found you, so I'd also like to say "congratulations" on your engagement!

Lavender Rose said...

Beautiful color and beautiful silk, Isabelle. My children have had this in their weddings and several of their friends' weddings. The suggestion of an underlining is a good one...and the suggestion of not washing before hand is also a good one. You may wash away the sheen you so cherish. Dawn is right. Dupioni is delicate and a light-weight fabric...not meant to be a long-wearing material. So, enjoy it for the time you will wear it, and don't worry about it!! Even when you press it lightly, it will still have a slightly wrinkled look.
Hugs,
Deb

Katrin said...

Congratulations from me, too :-).
This is such a nice fabric for a wedding gown and I really love the colour.
I would not wash dupioni silk since it will use its shine and the crisp feeling which makes this silk so special.
I can also add a few recommendations to handle, if you like: To avoid ripped threads within the fabric, use a Microtex-needle. I would also go for french seams instead of serging also for this reason.
To reinforce the seamlines I would also cover them with stripes of light fusible interfacing.
I sewed a ballgown last December from a taffeta fabric, quite similar to dupioni and raised some experience by sewing this...

I hope I don´t bother you with my remarks.

Regards,
Katrin

Anonymous said...

The fabric is very beautiful and good for you that you tried it out on a sample first. At least you know that that effect is not the one you are looking for. I wish you loads of joy in making that dress and I'm sure you will be stunning on your mariage. Ann.

Tany said...

Hi Isabelle!

First I want to thank you for your kind comments at my blog! I will write some more about the way I turned the bias tubes because I know this information may come handy if you decide to use bias tubes for the button closures on your wedding gown. I would also like to email you some extra information. You can email me: tany0471 at sapo dot pt if you like. Big Hug from Portugal :))

Casa Pearl said...

Oh Isabelle,congratulations on the upcoming wedding-I'm so happy for you! Your fabric is lovely and I have to say I'd probably stick with unwashed and dry clean it. I can't wait to see your progress on this - I know it will be totally amazing.

madhatter said...

that's why i never-ever will wash dupioni again.
it loses its stand and its shimmer and looks just....awful.
i've once had a wonderful dress from dupioni and washed it (and i really chose the "careful" way!). i threw it away in the end.

whenever i use dupioni now it will go to the dry cleaner's. that works well and the costs aren't as high as buying new fabric/sewing a new dress everytime ;)

you'll have a WONDERFUL day in your BEAUTIFUL dress (love the color you chose, it will suit you so nice!) - congrats :)
can't wait to see more of the wip!

Connie said...

Hi Isabelle! Love your color choice for your wedding dress. I took a textiles class in college and dupioni silk is one fabric that you NEVER want to get wet. I would even be careful when ironing it to not use steam in the iron. Use a pressing cloth and tread very gently with the heat and moisture. Dry cleaning is essential. It will be expensive to upkeep if you wear it alot, but then it IS your wedding dress, and deserves to be special!

claudia said...

Thank you for your sweet comments and concern for my daughter. It looks as though everything may be okay. We do still have to wait for her test results, but I am keeping positive thoughts.

Shannon said...

You left a message on my blog about your silk - I'm sorry but this is the first chance I've had to respond. I have never had my dupioni end up looking like your swatch. However, I don't actually wash my silk. Rather, I just let it soak. I don't tend to notice a measurable difference in the fabric once it is dry and pressed with my iron. So, now I'm curious, what did you end up deciding what to do with your dupioni?

Jamie said...

Oh how beautiful! I wish I had the talent to create my own wedding dress. I've just started looking and I don't think I'm going to wear white - it's just not me. I've got tons of time to decide. Where are you getting married?